Tash Rabat and marmot spotting

Thursday 27 August 2026

We awoke to ice again on the ground.  But the sun soon warmed us and the fleeces were off after breakfast.

We loaded up and headed northwest.  Timur kindly relinquished the passenger seat so I could sit in the front, to help minimise travel sickness.  We had over 140 km of off-road first thing and I wanted to survive it in better shape than last.

The scenery was spectacular as ever.  We stopped briefly at this small canyon, Ulken Kuljabash Canyon, and were amused watching the group by the river as one of the guys stripped down to his underwear and went for a swim.

We crossed the flood plain of the River Aksay.

We tried to photograph marmots which were all over the place, but they are super jumpy and scuttle down their holes as soon as they sense danger.   I did see some camels in the distance.  They do not bolt when scared.  In fact, does anything scare a camel?

The rough roads finally took their toll and we had a puncture.  30 minutes later, spare wheel fitted, we were driving again.

To treat themselves after the exertion, the guys opted for lunch in a restaurant.  Well, eatery I suppose, where initially the only veggie dish they could offer was chips until they remembered they could serve fried veg with rice.  It wasn’t bad and I only found three pieces of meat in it.  

I snapped this photo whilst waiting for food as a classic Kyrgyz scene - mountains, Lada and someone squatting.  I then realised it was Jusup.  He always squatted when he stopped.  And, unlike JC and I who would eat standing, he and Timur always sat/squatted to eat because they were Muslims.  

We stopped at Koshoy Korgon, a ruined ancient fortress.  There is very little to see except partially standing sandstone walls.

They had a little museum and Jusup located the caretaker who opened it up for us.  I don't think he saw many visitors.  My highlight was an old map of the world by Mahmud al-Kashgari an 11th-century scholar  from Kashgar.  His book, the Dīwān Lughāt al-Turk ("Compendium of the languages of the Turks") included the first known map of the areas inhabited by Turkic peoples.  It's a lovely T in O map.

We ended the day at Tash Rabat.  This was a Silk Road caravanserai and by all accounts in good condition.  We were disappointed, therefore, to find it being refurbished with a tin roof covering.  It scuppered JC's plan to fly his drone over.

Fortunately we were allowed inside (despite the no entry signs) and we explored this amazing building consisting of 31 rooms.  

They let JC bring his tripod in and he probably spent an hour taking shots.  Well, 30 minutes taking shots and 30 minutes waiting for people to disappear out of view.

Tonight was our last yurt camp.  I'm missing the lake view but I had horses.

Authentic as they are, after five nights in yurts the novelty was wearing off - and I was missing showering.  Each yurt camp was different - this one had a fancy dining set up, a building rather than a shed/yurt, and we had a light in our yurt with a remote control switch (fancy).  However this felt more commercial, and we missed the authenticity of the earlier yurt camps with their dodgy mattresses, herding families and visiting chickens.  It was dark from about 1900 and, once you’ve eaten, there was nothing to do but sleep.  It was also very cold.  But, as usual, they lit the burner for us, and like Köl Suu, they had coal.  

Köl Suu

Wednesday 26 August 2026 

I slept over 11 hours last night which wasn't surprising. I didn’t wake up perky - I think the high altitude takes it out of you (we were now sleeping at 3200 m) - but I was well enough to eat an egg and a rice cake for breakfast.

We set off for Köl (pronounced Kel) Suu lake which I thought I could manage as it was 7 km each way and only a 300 m ascent (at 3200 m ahem).  The valley was beautiful. It was all you’d expect from a remote Krygyz region: crystal clear waters cascading down, cattle and yak grazing, sheep munching grass, blue skies, snow capped mountains made a perfect scene. When we asked Timur and Jusup which was their favourite walk on our trip, they said the Köl Suu walk.  I can see why.

Occasionally a group of tourists on horseback trotted past but we mainly had the trail to ourselves.

I was very grateful to be on terra firma today.  I managed the walk, although my ability to ascend was curtailed by my lack of energy and altitude.  Timur and Yusup made the most of our slow speed to lie down.  [Ed: JC the photographer was holding up proceedings was as much as Ruth the not-so-fast walker].

It was certainly worth reaching the lake, at 3520 m above MSL, and I was glad I'd pushed myself.  Kol Suu is 17 km long and pretty narrow.  Lake number 5 for us.  For info, in Kyrgyz, Kul = lake and Suu = water.  But I'm counting all Kuls and Suus as one and the same.

We stayed at the north end, basically because the mountains reached down to the lake side and there were no routes around.

There were boat trips here which kind of took the edge off the peaceful remote lake. Again I avoided, not just because they were £30 each, but because I was trying to keep my breakfast where it should be.

We lunched in the sun by the lake which was a delight, and I managed two rice cakes and a banana.  JC took the drone for a spin.  I love this overhead shot of us (I'm the blob sitting to the top of the image).

 

The walk down was easy and we yak spotted again.  JC flew the drone over the river getting some amazing shots.  

Timur and Yusup had a chill-out on some rocks, only appearing as we passed underneath them.

Once back, JC declared he wanted to head out again for sunset shots.  He wasn't surprised when I declined to join him, and instead I had a much needed rest in the yurt.  The yurt camps are improving on the accommodation/toilet block front but the views are less spectacular.

JC got some wonderful shots as you'd expect.

I managed to eat supper and, just as we were finishing, a cry went up that there was a car stuck in the river. So Jusup and Timur rushed out to help.  It was dark so some cars drove down to light the scene, and Jusup, who was the type of guy that would help anyone, waded into the icy water.  Some horse riders went in too.  Eventually it was pulled out by an amphib vehicle.  Although seemingly mad to drive across a river at night, the young chap was on a mercy mission to rescue a tourist who had broken their leg.

Song Kul to Köl Suu with lots of twists and turns

Tuesday 25 August 2026

The high wind took a toll on our yurt during the night.  One of the roof struts fell down ~0230 and two others had shifted position.  I then lay awake scrutinising the remaining struts planning what I’d do if the yurt collapsed.  Of course it didn’t, but it wasn't my most peaceful night’s sleep.  (You can see the broken strut on the floor if you look carefully).

It was time to say farewell to Song Kul and its delightful drop toilets.  There was an external nail for wedging the door closed when it wasn't not in use, otherwise the wind would whip the corrugated door off.  Breakfast was great - buckwheat and vegetables washed down with black coffee.  

We left the yurt camp at 0830 and headed towards Naryn via the Teskey-Torpok Pass.  A cute boy flagged us down and asked for sweets.  This was a lure to get us to buy their kymyz, fermented mare's milk.  Yusup and Timur knew the score and were pleased to pick up a bottle for the journey.

We passed through Dartmoor-esque terrain as we ascended to top of the pass.  

What a view!  And what a road… We descended the 33 twists and turns and I started to feel sick.

We stopped at the base to visit Torpor waterfall.  I was feeling grim and unsteady on my feet.

We headed off again and, again fortuitously, stumbled on another traditional event.  The village was celebrating preparations for the World Nomad Games.  It was well organised with the police on traffic control.

I took a pictures but mainly sat in the shelter of a yurt trying to wish myself better.  The clothing worn was wonderful.  JC drank some local milk with salt (it might have been kymyz).

Songs were sung and the köökör, a traditional Kyrgyz leather vessel handcrafted to store and carry kymyz (their equivalent of the Olympic torch), was handed over.  The horsemen were waved off by the women and children.  See here.

We arrived in Naryn at 1330, found a restaurant but I couldn’t face anything except sweet tea.  JC had a massive pizza which he only got half through - he looks defeated already here but made a galant effort.

I bought lunch in supermarket, skittles - I know I'm poorly when I crave sugar.  We also picked up the bread for the yurt camp - it makes sense for them to ask guests to collect fresh supplies whilst passing through.  

It was ~150 km to our destination, but the tarmac ran out ~25 km in and then it was bump and jolt along a dirt track.  By this stage I was lying across the back seat and then I wasn’t, I was outside chucking.  “Better out than in,” as they say.

The next 100 km were no fun but I wasn’t sick again.  Occasionally we’d stop so JC could take a photo but I could hardly lift my head off the seat.

We passed a police check point as, to enter this zone, you need a permit.  It is close to China and for some reason this is a designated ‘neutral zone’.  We arrived at the yurt camp 1845 and I dived into a bed.  JC dragged me out to have sweet tea at supper time but I couldn’t face food.  I slept forever.