Andalusia Day Two - Alhambra, Granada

Monday 18 October

We spent the day at Alhambra.  It is a truly magnificent site containing centuries' worth of construction/destruction/reconstruction by various Moorish rulers, Spanish royalty and religious leaders all of whom made their mark on Alhambra.  At the west end is the Alcazaba, the fortification; the mid section contains the amazing Palacios of Comores and de los Leones, various salas (halls) and a Palacio de Carlos V (the last and most modern addition); and in the east is the Generalife, another whole set of buildings, halls, palaces etc.  This is surrounded by walls, look out towers, walkways and other fortifications.  Amongst the buildings, arches and towers are magnificently laid out gardens of various eras and styles.

No wonder we spent 8 hours in there.

The architecture and decoration is breathtaking - carved from wood and stone it must have been a person's life's work adding detail to some of these walls.

The Arabic script tells a story and, apparently, the Alhambra is a poem from end to end.

This the Lion's Courtyard.  A courtyard within a palace with rules as to who could be there, talk to whom and enter/leave.  Beautifully stunning as they are, I can't help but see them as prisons: rooms from which women, in particular, were not allowed to ever leave without permission. 

The Moorish fascination with water meant that many of their buildings use ponds and reflection as a key theme.  I can totally see why.

By now I was well and truly into my Uzbek look with scarf/sunhat look keeping the super heat off me.

Some hours later we wandered into the eastern end of the site, Generalife.  It's like a whole visit itself with beautifully laid out gardens, Moorish architecture and reflecting pools.  

Last time we visited the Alhambra complex we were dashed around by an incompetent guide (it was a last minute booking, the only way we could see it) in 2 hours.  This was me 6 hours in and still enthralled - I admit aided and abetted by a guide book that I read, pretty much, from page to page whilst JC photographed.

Andalusia Day One - Malaga to Granada

Sunday 17 October

We booked an early Autumn trip to Andalusia once the Covid-19 travel restrictions eased, hoping to get some sun, warmth and lots of R&R.  It certainly worked!

We flew to Malaga on the Saturday, stayed overnight in a cheapy hotel and I watched JC devour one of his many holiday croissants the next morning.  He's kind of back on home turf.  Our AirBnB that night was in Granada, but we had all day to get there so first off stopped at Jardín Botánico La Concepción on the outskirts of Malaga.  I do love a botanical garden, and this one ticked all the boxes: leafy avenues, bubbling streams and waterfalls, showy flowers and a coffee shop.  

Discovered a strange fruit/flower the size of a melon and furry.  I think the pomegranate-like seeds are carried on the wind when the time comes.

One of 3 beautifully lush ponds, complete with frogs! 

We stopped for coffee and I learnt my first holiday lesson - when you see something nice on the menu, order food!  We skipped the eating part and decided to find lunch on our drive to Granada.  Loja was on the way and looked an interesting place.  It was certainly a lovely, historic village on a hill side with narrow cobbled streets and white washed houses, but it wasn't the culinary capital of anywhere.  Everything was closed except for a couple of street bars which didn't look great, a greengrocers and a patisserie.   So my first lunch in Spain consisted of a mandarin, a banana and bottled water!  Onwards and upwards...

We drove on to Granada navigating exactly the same streets as we did on our last visit a few years ago (Google maps must love certain twisty options).  Our AirBnB was lovely: light, airy with views across the local streets.  We ate in a local Moroccan restuarant then went to the local view point for a spot of sight seeing.  Alhambra - our destination for tomorrow.

Mousel Wetlands and Vineyards (or we didn't mean to go to Schengen)

Friday 04 October

Today we found a charming walk on the south eastern corner of Luxembourg by the Mousel River ('Mosel' in German, 'Moselle' in French, 'Mousel' in Luxembourgish) - a 9.7 km circular walk around Remerschen.

We started in peaceful wetlands with plenty of board walks, fishing spots and a couple of bird hides. 

We then climbed on up towards the vineyards stopping to chat with a local on the way.  When I mean 'we' I mean, JC.  This chap was picking fruit off his tree and I think started the conversation with JC in German then it switched to Luxembourgish once they realised they were both on home turf (it's hard to know when you're down in that corner).  He gave us some of his damsons to eat as we left.  

The vineyard walking was easy and accompanied by superb views down to Remerschen and across to Germany.

Although we had lunch with us it was too tempting not to stop for a beer at a buzzing brasserie.  I sat in the sun and thought of my usual Fridays in the UK - tapping away at my keyboard, hanging the washing out in between meetings - this was definitely better!

The last part of our loop took us under a dual carriageway and there we were on the edge of Schengen, famous for the free movement treaty signed back in 1985.  It still makes me very sad all this Brexit fandango.  I'm very grateful that the rest of Europe is still allowing free movement as we'd be stop/start driving around Luxembourg in/out Belgium, France, Germany...  I carry a passport with me when we leave Luxembourg as I don't have an ID card (not quite sure why - it seems the right thing to do!).

Sunny Germany

Thursday 02 September 2021

Today was Germany day.  We drove Trier, Germany's oldest city and once the de facto capital of the Western European Roman Empire.  There are numerous Roman sites here including an amphitheatre, a huge stone gate Porta Nigra - known as the 'Black Gate' due to its stone colour -  and various Roman baths.  We came here a couple of years ago but it was lovely to re-visit in the sun and spend time enjoying the street cafes.  Some of the sites, such as the magnificent cathedral and beautiful German buildings in the city centre, I photographed on my last visit so the blog below is just a few extra snapshots of this trip.

We walked past the Electoral Palace, once home to Constantine the Great in 4th Century and home to various generations of archbishops.  It's obviously had quite a few refurbs/rebuilds during its life time.    

Pretty shiny and gold now.

Then on down to a less flashy part of Trier, the Kaiserthermen, Trier Imperial Baths.  Part is being refurbed, but most was open to exploration including the fascinating underground system of passages which were used to service the bath and channel the water.

After a lazy lunch in the town centre, we strolled by the Mosel coming across the Roman bridge, the oldest in the country apparently.  It dates from the 2nd Century although has had a few modifications since then.  On the way back to the car we came across another Roman bath complex which is being restored.  I'd love to bring a Roman enthusiast here - they'd have a ball.

Sunny Belgium

Wednesday 01 September 2021

Today was Belgium day.  And the second chateau of the trip, Chateau de Bouillon.  What an amazing place!  It is situated on a rocky spur of the Semois River and, although it was first mentioned in 998, had been occupied by some degree of fortification before that.  It is one of the largest fortified castles in Belgium and has layer upon layer of defence built on the outcrops with draw bridges between them.  You have to cross 2 to attack the inner sanctuary of this place.  

A magnificent stone staircase built without any nails - just held up with expert stone cutting slotted into place.

Looking down on the inner court from the safety of the highest block.

A view from the first entrance showing the steep, unscalable sides surrounding the fort.

After lunch we drove the scenic route back down the Semois - beautiful views.

And we bagged castle number 3, Chateau d'Herbeumont.  This didn't take quite so long to look around as Chateau Bouillon.

 

I'd spotted 'globe' mentioned in the guide book - who wouldn't want to stop by and look as this little beauty? 

The local monks do a fine brew apparently, so it was churlish not to try it whilst passing.

Luxembourg City - Train, Tram, Lift and Funicular

Tuesday 31 August 2021

Today we made the most of Luxembourg's free public transport.  We caught the train into Luxembourg City and hopped on a tram to speed us up to the centre.  

We walked towards the city walls and the Pfaffenthal Panoramic Elevator.  It's 75 m high and offers wonderful views across the old city and the Alzette Valley.

Once down we strolled along the River Alzette and took a funicular up the valley on the other side.  Our aim was to visit the modern Art gallery but on arrival we discovered it was closed on Tuesdays.  That slightly baffled us: I often come across attractions being closed on a Monday but it didn't occur to us to check that it'd be open on a Tuesday. Anyway, we took the funicular back down (mainly because I think these things are fun) and back along the Alzette.

We came across an ancient washing area which had been restored to show its original style.  One end was devoted to 'water treading' where weary travellers are encouraged to shed shoes and socks and relish the freezing cold water to aid circulation.  

Lovely old bridges.  I'm usually freezing in January when we walk by this!

After lots of strolling along by the river we walked back up into the city and onto the walls for a drink with a view of the Grand (old city).

Prost!

Sunny Luxembourg - Chateau No. 1 and Little Switzerland

In August Luxembourg removed the need for visitors to quarantine on arrival and, as I have an EU passport which allowed me entry (they aren't letting Brits in right now),  I took the opportunity to hop on a plane and visit in the summer.  Previously I've only been there during New Year so was relishing enjoying it in the sun and warmth.

Sunday 29 August

Our first trip was to Fond de Gras, once a major mining centre of Luxembourg.  It still runs the old mining trains and you can even take the Minièresbunn underground which I'll pop onto my 'to do' list for my next summer visit to Luxembourg.

It had some cool boats made from maps in an exhibition in the Paul Wurth Hall, the site of the power plant.  

Monday 30 August

On Monday we visited our first chateau of the trip, Beaufort Chateau.  We usually visit a couple each time although we'll run out of Luxembourgish ones in the not too distant future.  We were only able to visit the Medieval Castle as the Renaissance part was tours only, and they didn't have one in English that day.  The Castle was built between 1050 and 1650 and was an interesting wander around.  It ticked all the castle boxes - turrets, stone stairs, kitchens with old fireplaces, knights halls, food cellars/caves, drawbridge, well accessible in case of siege and, naturally, the dungeon and torture cell.  

The Renaissance part was built in the 17th Century and in the 1930s the then owner started producing a blackcurrant liqueur called "Cassero". A shot of this is included in the entrance ticket so it was a fun little treat with the morning coffees.

After the chateau we headed to the region Little Switzerland to hike.  We started from Berdorf with auto-pedestre trail no. 1.  These auto-pedestre are super well sign posted and took us across farmland and then down a river valley.  At the end of the valley we detoured to see Perekop, one of the most visited rock giants in Luxembourg.  It is split in the middle and has a handy staircase - not an original geological feature - which takes you up to the top. It was a perfect picnic lunch spot.

The path drips with creepers, ferns, moss and dappled walkways.

Huel Lee ("hollow stone") was carved out in the Middle Ages by stone masons.  The mills of the Oeren Monastery near Trier, Germany, were obliged to use only millstones from this quarry.  The roof of the cave is scalloped out in large shell like scoops.

Once back at Berdorf we headed off to another trail, hiking trail B2.  I wasn't really paying attention when we chose this thinking it was 'just' a nice walk in the woods.  It turned out to be a lot more fun than that and it wasn't long before we came across a metal rope bridge.

Another sign pointed to a small cave which looked blocked until we shone a torch to discover a metal ladder perched at the end.  So of course we climbed it and popped out on the top of the rock.  There were a few distractions like this.  The thinnest one was certainly this path which was 30 cm at its narrowest. Certainly rucksack off and breathe in time!