Trains and Amazing caves (part one)

Tuesday 20 February 2024

Train day today.  We caught a midday train from Mumbai to Aurangabad.  Not a fast journey, despite being on the express train, but it was nice to chill and watch the world go past with our 20p train coffee. And watch other trains trundle past.

We had pre ordered a meal to be delivered to the train from a local restaurant and, as we stopped at Kalyan junction, someone hopped on with our order, we paid 340R (£3.40) and he jumped off.  Amazingly tasty dosa, aloo curry, rice and dahl for two. 

The train arrived on time and checked into our hotel which had a nice enough restaurant so we ate there before dropping off.  

Wednesday 21 February 2024

Our taxi collected us at 0730 and drove us to Ajanta, about 100 km from Aurangabad.  These Buddhist carved caves date from the 2nd century BC and the majority were built in the 5th/6th century AD.  They were ‘discovered’ in 1819 which must have been an amazing day for someone.

We were dropped at a view point and walked down to another one, enjoying the antics of these Indian palm squirrels who were everywhere.  There was no water in the river so no functioning waterfall.

We started at cave 27 and worked down to 1.  As we are both dutiful and organised tourists, we went into every cave in order, even when the guide book said "don't bother". It kind of felt unfair to leave some out even if they were a poor version of their neighbour.

Some were quite plain and functional (unfinished perhaps) but some were breathtaking.  There were a few chaitya-halls, which are temples/for sacred activities.  Cave 26 had an incredible vaulted ceiling, all carved from stone, a large recumbent Buddha and lots of little ones.


Most of the caves were just carved.  ‘Just’ meaning amazingly exquisitely honed from a hammer and chisel, unadorned by paint.

Cave 24 was an 'incomplete monastery' (according to the sign) but had beautiful pillars.

Cave 20 (or 21? it was hard to remember which was which after a while) had lovely capitals adorning the pillars.

Cave 21 was the first one in which we saw paintings.

Cave 19 was another chaitya-hall with an amazingly carved ceiling.

Caves 16 and 17 had far more paintings.  These would have been beautiful when first completed but, of course, over time the mud and lime plaster dropped off, so it required a bit of concentration and imagination to understand what you were viewing.  It was also dark!  Most of the caves had a little lighting but the more precious the paintings, the less lit the cave.  Some guides had torches to illuminate sections for their customers.  We just took photos and enjoyed.

Cave 10 had lovely painted pillars.

The views were lovely.

Caves 3 to 8 were more of the amazing same.

This one was massive.  

Cave 2 had more beautiful painted ceilings and walls.  Although this could have been cave 1...


We had a late lunch in a café our driver recommended: not that we had much choice and I’m sure he benefits from taking his daily clientele there.  The bhindi (okra) masala was wonderful.  And as we drove back we passed a shiny Buddha.  In order for us to see it again the driver - much to the horror of Caitlin and I - turned around and drove the wrong way down the dual carriageway for us to get our photo.  I didn't dare look.

We were back at the hotel by 1630 so showered then headed out for coffee.  The hotel coffee is instant so I really relished a decent black americano and it was wonderful!  Then it was supper in the hotel again.  Uninspiring but we were too tired to bother seeking anywhere new.  And we were pooped.

Monday Mumbai meet-up

Monday 19 February 2024

I had a morning to fill/kill before Caitlin and her friends arrived so went down to the harbour and installed myself in a wonderful roof top café for an hour or so.  Wonderful views, give or take the haze thing, and I could see a lighthouse.  A relaxing start to the day.

I then finished off a few buildings on the architectural walk I’d not yet seen.  I stuck my head into the Sassoon Library but only as far as non members can tread.

I revisited the university properly whose clock tower is modelled on Big Ben.

I passed the usual street stalls everywhere such as sugar cane sellers.

I spotted a church and decided to swing by.  As I did I found the zero marker for Mumbai which, of course, was hugely exciting.  The church itself is quite austere, I prefer simplicity to bling, and full of memorials to Englishmen and women who had died whilst serving in India in the 19th and 20th centuries.

I met up with Caitlin and her friends, Lucy and Tom, and we started off with coffee.

Then a short tour of the railway station.  Apparently it’s a ‘thing’ that white women are frequently stopped for photos.  Tom told me this whilst Lucy and Caitlin were stopped for a selfie with someone or other. “You must be used to this,” he said.  It occurred to me it had never happened!  When Riona and I were in India she was always asked for photos, never me.  And in China my older (male) colleagues were stopped but I was not the object of their photographic interests.  It’s not that I’m ugly, it’s just that I’m too old for them to be keen to have me on their phone and, due to the patriarchal viewpoint, older women are not venerated like older men.  It’s as if in society, men become more interesting as they age, and women diminish.  I didn’t have much patience for this, even though harmless. Just thought it a waste of time! 

Anyway, a quick photo shot - with me! - outside then off to visit the university again (my third time) and Caitlin, Lucy and Tom wanted to see.

I loved the motorbike cover with ears!  And I saw these semi static police points dotted around the city. Saves rental space I suppose.

I found a sign to have my photo taken in front of, even if it was the Indian Navy.  Its HQ is in Mumbai which made me very happy.  As an aside, I tracked down the Mumbai maritime museum but sadly it was a 90 minute taxi journey each way and I had no way of knowing if it was open until I pitched up.

More coffee and rest then shopping time.  Caitlin and Lucy bought earrings, Tom did other tourist shopping and I was happy watching.

We had a fabulous meal in a lovely Indian eatery and, at just before midnight, we waved Lucy and Tom off to travel back to the UK.  And then we were two.