Belem - A monastery, maritime museum and a tower

Sunday 23 June 2024

Today we went to Belem, a short train ride from Lisbon.  We started with the Jerónimos Monastery Monastery which had the most amazing architecture. It was annoyingly poorly organised (and you know I hate a disorganised queue!) in that they paid no attention to timed tickets. No matter what time your ticket was for you still all had to join the back of the 30-60 minute queue.  Ah well, I had a book and JC wandered off with his camera.  It was certainly worth the wait.

I loved the gargoyle like faces.

The photographer at large.

Afterwards we visited the maritime museum which is always a must-see on my list.

Lots of maritime goodies but, as always, it’s the navigational tools that grab me. 

They had a big hanger full of boats, a royal barge and seaplanes, one of which had done a final leg of the first ever flight across the Southern Atlantic.  Portuguese naval aviators Gago Coutinho and Sacadura Cabral flew across it in 1922 using three different Fairey III biplanes (they kept breaking them) over 6 weeks.  Crazy.

We walked down by the River Tagas, past the monument to Padrão dos Descrobrimentos.  The lighthouse was all scaffolded up which was sad, but at least it's getting some tlc.  It is vertical in real life - just the angle of the photo I took (panic not).

On arriving at Belem Tower we were advised it was sold out.  So we hopped online, bought some tickets, and entered.  Touché!

I don't often see signs re: what to do in case of an earthquake.  In fact Lisbon appears tuned into natural disaster management as there were tsunami warning and evacuation zones in Lisbon.

We were one of the last to enter as it was closing within the hour, so we were hustled from room to room and weren’t allowed on the roof space or to the terrace, except to snap a few shots.  And find a survey mark of course. 

However, better a rushed Belem Tower than not at all, and we we found it fun to be last in as most others had walked off when told it was sold out. 

We swung by the Church of St. María of Belém which is next to the monastery.  We were allowed to sneak in the back during a service and snapped our goal - the sarcophagus of Vasco da Gama.

We stayed late in Belhem as JC wanted to take some night photos.  All very beautiful but not an early night - another busy day (this is supposed to be a relaxing holiday...).

Lisbon Calling

Friday 21 June 2024

Dad’s funeral was on Tuesday 18 June.  It was very sad but joyful in strangely equal measures.  Arrived home that evening and worked the Wednesday etc.  My personal inbox, neglected from a month worth of “normal” emails, needed attending to, and the two evenings before we left for Lisbon were very stressful as I tried to fit everything in.  Eventually I logged off from work at midday on the Friday and we headed for Bristol airport.  

The M5, however, had various snarl ups so we went cross country via Glastonbury.  We made it through bag drop, security and boarding but I only started to chill once on the plane.

Lisbon airport to downtown Lisbon is smooth and cheap (€1.80) and we checked in smoothly to our super quirky accommodation Lisbon Calling.  Not sure about the Trump-esque print above the bed but the bathroom and lounge were wonderfully weird!

We ate out locally and, at last, time to chill with food, wine and, post supper, a river view.

Saturday 22 June 2024

JC rose up and was out early today to photograph a local funicular before the insta crowd got to it.  Meanwhile I slept.  On returning to the room at 0930 and finding me asleep he got all worried.  “Are you ok?” he asked?  “Yes I’m fine,” I answered.  “I’m just catching up on this year’s sleep.”

Once up and out, we visited a funicular, strangely called Elevador da Bica.

We finally had some breakfast and enjoyed strolling through the city admiring the beautiful buildings and streets.

We walked to the Elevador de Santa Justa which, at 45 m high, is the only remaining vertical lift in Lisbon (of this size).  We found the top and eschewed descending in it, saving our €6 each for something more exciting.

We headed for the Castillo de São Jorge and explored the old fort of Lisbon.  Amazing views of the city. 

To my great excitement we found a trig pillar up a tower, and then I found how high above mean sea level we were.

Sunny smiley day.

We wandered down to the cathedral and popped inside.  We started on the upper floors and I loved the stained glass and reflections on the floor.

The cathedral itself was ok.  Call me picky but I’ve seen more amazing, but it was fine enough.

I amused myself photographing JC and a dog.

We swung by a famous view point, the Miradouro de Santa Luzia.  Of course, it was packed, so not a lot of fun, especially as a cruise ship had berthed in front of the main view.  Tsk.

We wandered back up towards the castle, enjoying the Lisbon tiled architecture. 

Then it was up to Miradouro da Graça for a drink on the terrace before heading down some steps only to stumble across some kind of street art competition.  The white washed walls were being painted by some talented artists.  So great to watch.

We ended our day in an area called Interdente where a friend of our neighbour had a restaurant. Lovely meal chez Josephine.   

Now I'm missing Dad too

Dad has been increasingly poorly this year (see last blog) and started to decline further in May.  I decamped to his place on Tuesday 14 May and was so pleased to be there.  He was receiving care 4x a day, deteriorated daily and on that Friday, St Michael's Hospice stepped in to support us.  They are absolute angels.  The next week was an intense time of watching Dad pretty much 24/7, multiple care visits both during the day and middle of the night (carers, doctors, nurses), family (sisters, Keith, his boys for Match of the Day which he loved!), friends and work emails in quieter periods.  I felt so honoured that Dad let me be there in his final days.  Caitlin and Riona both came down, and Caitlin engaged Dad in a crossword when he wasn't napping.

When everyone had left for the day, I'd go up and sit next to him on his bed whilst he slept.  I'd take one of Mum's crossword books and chat to him as I solved the puzzles.  Such special times.  

Dad died as he wished, in his bed at home, in the early hours of Friday 24 May.  I was privileged to be there with Thai, his (and our) beloved carer, Caitlin (who had dropped back in on her way to Exeter) and JC.  Riona was on night shift so we gave her a call at 0230 for a chat and virtual hug.

Dad was lucid until the early hours of Wednesday morning - 2 days before he died - and it's been a shock to be chatting to someone one week and them not being there the next.  It was different with Mum, who disconnected with us years ago because of her dementia (so a different type of grief) but who died unexpectedly. I catch myself hearing of a landslide on the railways and thinking "I'll email Dad that" only to realise I can't.  I well up with tears when I come across a recent email of his.  

So now Keith and I are back again organising another funeral.  It is something when the funeral directors recognise you isn't it?  It's just over 5 months since Mum died and I'm nowhere over that yet.  And as Keith and I start to sort through the house it just oozes Mum and Dad memories.  There is a bit of relief that I no longer have to worry about Dad.  For around 2 or so years, since he had sepsis, we've received a daily "OK" email from him.  Those mornings when it hadn't arrived by 0730 made me nervous.  And if it hadn't arrived by 0900 I'd email him, or call.  It will take me a while before I stop worrying about him - I'm still waiting for that morning email.

Dad's funeral is later this month and we're writing his eulogy.  During this I've come across a mini-life story Dad wrote covering his time from childhood to early adulthood, a mere 47 pages.  His memories of life in the war, school and his car mechanic apprenticeship are detailed -  there are numerous stories of roads driven, types of Austin cars involved, double de-clutching etc - as is his time in National Service (Yemen and Kuwait).  He recalls driving around Essex with L plates in 1956 as the Suez Crisis halted driving tests.  

It's only when you read of a time gone that you appreciate how special a life was.  He was infuriating in many ways, and I sadly only really got to know him once Mum's dementia had taken hold.  But at least I had the last 5 years listening to him and sharing special times.  I am sad, but I'm glad to be sad - some people don't know their Dad, or don't mind him dying, but I do.  Thank you Dad x