Ala Archa National Park

Monday 17 August 2026 

Today we visited Ala Archa National Park.  It’s close to Bishkek so was an easy day-run.  We had intended to walk to the waterfall, 4 km with 700 m ascent from where the National Park bus dropped us, but Timur persuaded to hop in the cable car for the first 2 km (few hundred metres ascent).  This turned out to be advice worth listening to.

We took an hour to walk up to the Aksay waterfall which was freezing as it was fed by glacial run off.

We then had what our tour delightfully named a “picnic in the nature” which was the first of many.  I ate the Turkish Air gluten free roll I’d saved from our flight, with the usual dried fruit, nuts and bananas.  

Thanks to Timur’s insistence that we used the cable car, we had spare time and energy to push on further up into the mountains.

Timur's hat broke so he adapted a sun protection from a spare shirt.

We walked/scrambled 2.4 km and ascended 700 metres to 3340 m. The sign had said it should take 2:30 which showed how hard it was!  It was exhausting in the heat at +3000 m but we persevered and reached Razeka Station in 2 hours.  We were pleased at our fitness/stamina.

Razeka Station is a ‘base camp’ for climbing further into the mountains.  There was a small bar, full of slightly crazed-looking dancers, where we bought tea.

We popped over the ridge to see the valley behind which was awesome.

Suddenly, a casualty appeared. We initially thought it was a practice run, but he appeared to have broken a foot/leg.  We were reminded of the danger of walking in the mountains by a rock face at base camp which memorialised some who have died.

We headed down which was a different kind of hard to ascending.  Slipping was our major concern as much of the path was loose scree and dust.  We took our time and descended with me only slipping twice and JC, who had smartly donned walking boots as opposed to my walking trainers, had limpet-like grip and stayed upright.

Great views.  The dust is building work - they appear to be extending the cable car and building a 'resort' up here.  Progress apparently.

We weren’t down and back in the car until 1900, then it was back to Bishkek and supper with our tour operator to discuss the plans ahead. Back at the hotel for 21:30, packing and sleep.

Kyrgyzstan - and we're off

Saturday 15 September 2026

In JC's quest to travel the Silk Road, Krygyzstan was on the list.  For those who aren't au fait with the geography of Central Asia (including me), it's a small land-locked country sitting south of the large Kazakstan, north and west of China and east of Uzbekistan/Tajikistan.  It is a nomadic country and the average height is 2750 m above Mean Sea Level.

We were up and out by 0630 to catch train from Brentford to Gatwick.  It was a straight forward check in and we were soon airside for breakfast and a leisurely Guardian read.  Poor guy looks tired already!

We changed planes in Istanbul and had a 3.5 hour break between flights which meant time for Turkish tea and snacks.

We left Istanbul 2030 local (1830 BST) and landed in Bishkek, Krygyzstan, at 0430 local (0130 BST).  I’d managed a couple of hours sleep so wasn’t feeling too dead.  A very simple passport control, baggage collection and we were collected by our driver, Yusup and Madina.  They dropped us at our hotel and we were grateful for another couple of hours sleep before heading out to explore Bishkek. 

Sunday 16 September 2026

Bishkek is not currently (will ever be?) the highlight of any Central Asia tour.  It is a standard ex-communist city.  There appeared no old part to the city and we visited the Victory Arch, built to resemble a yurt frame, with its eternal flame.

We then walked to Bishkek Central Mosque.  Again all relatively new and apparently styled on the Blue Mosque in Istanbul.

It was very hot.  Hotter than the UK, in the high 30’s.  Unlike the UK, though, this was normal.  Bishkek is 800 m above mean sea level but we knew the temperatures would be lower for most of our trip due to the altitudes we’d be at.

We watched the changing of the guards.  The high leg walk reminded me of Athens guards, although no pom poms were in sight here.  They then stand rigid for two hours until the next pair relieve them.  When is it stupidly hot (not today) they are relieved after an hour.  Above them is a large Kyrgyz flag which I couldn’t capture without crossing a busy road.  If you hang in there with the blogs you'll see this again on 04 September.

We explored the State History museum.  JC found the Bronze Age and similar antiquities his vibe, whilst I preferred the more modern stuff (18th century onwards).  I liked the little epics on display.

Post independence from Russia in 1991, Kyrgyzstan had to create a new flag and here are the suggestions. The symbol in the centre of the chosen flag represents the lattice pattern across the top of a yurt where there is an opening to allow sun in/smoke out.

For lunch, JC continued his ongoing campaign to eat lagman (beef and noodles) at any opportunity and I had the first of many fried aubergine, tomatoes and rice dishes.  Kyrgyzstan is another destination I am not visiting for its cuisine.  Our guide, Timur, is struggling to understand how anyone can survive life without meat.  The diet here is meat centric, with beef and lamb being the most common.  Pork is rarely on the menu as many Kyrgyz are Muslim.  Our lunch started with a shot of the National drink, milk with salt.  We haven’t quite got our taste buds into that one yet (notwithstanding being unsure how safe it was for us to drink) but salt in drinks is common.

Timur asked about our jobs.  JC’s he could understand as weather is everywhere.  But trying to explain what a coastline, tides and waves are to someone who has never seen the sea was more challenging.  We explored the local market where Timur proudly announced “you can get anything” - anything except postcards it seems.  But he seemed right on most other things.  I didn’t take photos as I’ve taken numerous of these type of markets before: alleyways devoted to the sale of shoes, electronics, spice stalls, kitchen tool corners etc.  We had fresh pear juice from a vending machine which was delicious but were less taken with the dried hard cheese balls Timur was keen for us to try.

I was stopped by a man curious about the wires in my ears, my hearing aids.  He wanted to know how many channels they had (numerous) and how much they cost (lots).  I’ve never been asked that before by a complete stranger.

Back at the hotel we enjoyed the mountain view from our room.

JC caught up on sleep whilst I did the usual Ruth thing of reorganising the packing.  We split our stuff when we travel so that should one bag go AWOL we each had enough clothes/other stuff in the other one to survive.  But once both bags were safe, I swap it all around.  We shall be on the road a lot this trip so one bag shall be for our day-to-day use.  JC’s rucksack, stuffed with the sleeping bags, thermarest and thermals, can stay unused until needed.

Dinner out was aubergine, tomatoes and rice for me, again.  JC tried horsemeat for the first time and quite liked it, although not as much as beef. Timur discovered two more un-Krygyz things about me.  I drive a SEAT which he’s never heard of and I’m left handed (not common in Muslim quarters).  So what with that, being a veggie and mapping the coastline, he’s finding me a bit weird.  

The hotel is offering wine for 1800 KGS. Initially I thought it was stupidly heavy wine (I was tired), then realised it was Krygyz Som, the currency.  Certainly not a steal at ~£15 a bottle.

Pottering along through July into August

Trying to prove to myself that I'm not yet an old lady, I ran a 10 km race on a stupidly hot day mid July.  I look remarkably fresh beforehand and very beat after 1 hr 11 mins trotting in the heat.  Very grateful for St John's Ambulance start who were misting us with water at the water station!

JC finished building a raised bed in our garden.  I wasn't much help as my back isn't strong enough to lift more than ~20 kg of soil so he very much did the heavy lifting.

Our new sofa arrived so the old one went to sofa heaven, courtesy of the council kerbside pick up service.

JC went to Luxembourg for 10 days but whilst there his aunt died, so he stayed on for 2 weeks in total.  I am often not great when he's away.  I get lonely very quickly, and even though I keep myself busy I feel terribly sad and it takes quite an effort to 'choose happiness'.  Of course, I still function: I work, I feed myself, I do some exercise - but it's just under a more grey cloud than usual.

I went to see my nearest neighbour, TP5329, who is looking somewhat buried beneath vegetation.  I might take secateurs next time.

Talking of vegetation, our climbing rose in the house in Ottery St Mary fell off the wall.  So I spent a Sunday morning when JC was away trying to make headway on that.  I cleared off two bags of vegetation.

I moved offices at work and my new one has a deaf person who is accompanied by Eden, his guide dog for the deaf.  Eden is very cute and off putting in the nicest possible way.  She has a penchant for lying in the corridor in the middle of the room.

I finally discovered the benchmark on the local church, St Andrew's.  How I missed that for the last few months is bugging me.

JC arrived home last Friday and on Saturday he had his belated birthday present, a sea kayaking trip.  We paddled from Budleigh Salterton to Ladram Bay and back and it was glorious.  The Jurassic coastline is incredibly dry and the cliffs look as if they may crumble to dust at any moment - some huge cracks are very visible.

On Sunday we once again tackled the Ottery garden.  Our neighbour leant us a ladder and a saw which helped immensely.  You can now see the yard again.  He also served us fresh coffee which was much appreciated.  

This weekend has again been lovely.  It started with breakfast with Caitlin and Roger.  Caitlin had come to Exeter as she and Rog were off to France/Spain yesterday lunchtime, so I snuck in a coffee and catch up.  I also took her Christmas present sheep down to say 'hi' to her.  Sheep is too heavy, bulky and breakable to have yet made it back to London with Caitlin.

My aunt and uncle visited yesterday.  It is always a delight to see them and we had lunch al fresco, then a decent walk around all of Cullompton's sites. Of course, the first highlight for them was the trig.  The building works on the hill have just re-opened the access to the east side of the trig so I was able to bag the flush bracket number.

Linda and Rob are really interesting to walk with as they point out all sorts of features I march straight past.  For example, there was this marvellous fungi growing on the oak.  I also learnt about the hornbeam tree which I'd never heard of (I know, you're all shocked) and how identify it vs beech by its toothed leaves.  And elm trees with their asymmetric leaves.  The more I learn the more I realise I know very little.  

And today, our friends from Ottery trekked north for lunch with us.  Lovely to show Emma and Richard our new des res.  They are very taken by our wonky upstairs floors and Emma couldn't stop pruning our lavender.  I need all the input I can get on our garden - thanks!