Weekend in Liege

Saturday 30 April

Serendipity struck when I realised I could gate crash JC's pre-planned trip to Belgium for free!  He'd already paid for the Euro tunnel and the hotel so I booked the time off and joined him.  Whilst he spent the weekend photographing, I took the opportunity to explore this new (for me) city.  

Our hotel was a few km walk from the centre so it was pleasant stroll up La Meuse.

 

I started exploring in the old part of the city.

As my day progressed I realised that religious buildings were going to theme highly during my visit.  This was the first I passed, Collégiale Saint-Barthélemy.  It didn't dawn on me for a few churches that most of them were open (you just had to push the closed door) and were free.  

 

Lots of interesting small alley ways, 'impasses'.

I made a beeline for the Montagne de Bueren, all 374 steps of it.  I plodded my way up and was rewarded with amazing views. This stairway connects the citadel at the top with the barracks below.  

 

Wandering around the top I discovered that the Coteaux de la Citadelle has beautiful gardens, les Terraces des Minimes, which are a delightful, peaceful haven above the city.

I passed the not-very-externally-beautiful Collégiale Saint-Jean-en-L'isle de Liège and didn't enter.  Fortunately I returned the next day and did go in (see below) - it was really interesting!

Next up was Liège's cathedral, Cathèdrale Saint-Paul.  By now I was well and truly visiting a few fair of the 7 Collegiate churches of Liege.  Not only does the cathedral have glorious tiles and an amazing ceiling, the stained glass was wonderful.  As well as the 16th Century works of art, they also had a host of modern stained glass to replace those damaged in the First World War.

 

 

Then I headed for the Collegiate Church Saint-Jacques, a former Benedictine abbey established in 1015.  It has remarkable, intricate stone work which I was able to see from the vantage point of first floor room I discovered by chance (I go up any staircase I can find!).  

 

I loved the painted walls.

I'd been hours on my feet but hadn't finished yet.  I chose to walk back down the east side of La Meuse and enjoyed this quirky walkway under the bridge.  

Then it was into the riverside Parc de la Boverie - lakes, beautiful gardens etc - then back to our hotel by the central station and its striking architecture.  

 

Sunday 01 May

Today I started with the botanical gardens.  I'm a bit of a sucker for these, as well as sculpture gardens, and paid my 4 Euro to explore these Victorian glass houses.

 

 

Back to the historic centre I popped into the Palace of the Prince Bishops.  You can only stick your head into the main courtyard but the cloisters were beautiful.

 

Returning to the historic churches trail, I visited the Unité Pastorale Saint-Martin (St Martin's Basilica).  Once again, there were really beautiful and creative stained glass windows.  

 

I passed the Collégiale Saint-Jean-en-L'isle de Liège and decided to give it a quick look and I'm delighted I did.  Firstly, in the cloisters I found a line and dates on the wall.  It turned out, as expected, these were heights of the two major floods, the most recent one being in 1926.  A portion of Liège's centre used to be on an island and, although the river was blocked up land it still at risk from flooding.

 

Inside I discovered a rare feature, an octagonal interior.  A guide came over to chat to me in English, and explained that there are only a few of these types of church buildings in the world.  He said there was a similar one in Aachen, Germany, and Israel (and somewhere else?).  Sounds like a trip to Aachen is on the cards as it's beautiful.    

I sometimes wish I had a step count for weekends like these as I was on my feet for hours each day.  I adore a new city, a map in my hand and a flat pair of shoes.  Bliss.