We continued our exploration of Hanoi on foot today and ended up walking for miles and miles (sadly "kilometres and kilometres" doesn't quite have the same ring). We started off by crossing Train Street. This is where the national trains trundle down a suburban street. The locals know exactly when they are coming, which fortunately for them is only 2 or 3 times a day, and there is a yellow line painted on the pavement indicating the extent of the train width. You can just see it to the left of JC. There really is not much room to manoeuvre when a train comes past!
After this we visited the Temple of Literature. It was the ancient school of learning for children (males only) to study their language and Confucianism and, if good enough, become Mandarins and advisors to the Emperor.
The gardens, ponds and gates lead you through to the inner temple.
I love the dragons on the ridge. And the big drum.
In the courtyard, stone turtles (signifying longevity) support stelae, inscribed with the names of all the successful candidates between 1442 and 1779 (although the school began in 1070). I was amused to read that not only were criminals excluded from sitting the exams, but other so-called unworthies such as singers and musicians.
It was our hottest day today with temperatures up around 38 degrees Celsius so every pore that could sweat did! Undeterred, and supping water as we went, we moved onto the Imperial Citadel.
This was Hanoi’s forbidden city, however Emperors from the 18th century started modifying it when the capital moved from Hanoi. And then the French arrived in the mid 19th century and pretty much demolished it. Only the main gateway exists alongside numerous archaeological remains.
There was an informative exhibition celebrating the life of Hon Chi Ming. He ran the Vietnam War from offices and a bunker here.
We left and swung around to the north gate and stopped for a drink. I loved the Ruth sized chairs which meant that JC was finding them a tad on the small side. He’s obviously not Mr average size-wise in Vietnam.
I then wanted to see the botanical gardens so we popped into them, to the tune of 2000d each (10p). The grounds are nice enough but it’s basically a couple of lakes and a park which was full of locals exercising. Outdoor exercise is very common here and all ages are out doing thai-chi, badminton and using the outdoor gym equipment.
We were near Hanoi’s largest lake, West Lake, which I wanted to see, so we eventually found our way to it detouring around private developments which had blocked off public access to it. There is a road annexing a small lake, Ho Truc Bach Lake, with one of Hanoi’s oldest pagodas and Buddhist temple so we had a quick visit of that just as it was closing. Lots of Buddhas!
Still very hot and wilting more we sat by the road and drank more coke. On our way back to the hotel I fancied a pop to a coffee shop I’d seen mentioned in the guide. You enter through a fabric shop, walk to the back of the building to find the cafe and order. You then climb up 3 flights of stairs, including one spiral staircase, to an awesome view!
The coffee wasn’t that great (it’s very bitter in Vietnam) but the view and the sheer quirkiness of the place more than made up for it!
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