Saturday, 29 July 2023

Bradford-on-Avon, Bath and Birthday (sadly not mine)

We went away last weekend on a surprise birthday weekend for JC.  Well, it wasn't a surprise that we were going away, or, indeed, a surprise to him that he had a birthday coming up, but the location was all my doing.  I'd chosen Bradford-on-Avon as it wasn't too far, had easy access to Bath, and looked worth exploring for a day or two.

We drove up on Friday night and had a great tapas supper at Pablos.  

On Saturday we took the train into Bath and I took JC to his pre-birthday treat, the Museum of Asian Art.   Before I met JC, I wasn't terribly tuned into art (see the Chicago blogs) and certainly not Chinese art of which he is a particular fan.  This small, but perfectly formed, museum just off the Bath Circle is full of artefacts pretty much collected by one enthusiast, Brian McElney.  JC and I have quite different tastes in art, and we do certainly appear poles apart when it comes to Chinese antiques.  So I invented a game of "which antique would you run off with"?  These were the answers - me on the left (the bowl, not the statue), JC on the right (the bronze tripod food vessel over the food vase).

Then JC spotted this on the landing and changed his mind.

I think the more know you know about anything - art, music, trig pillars, benchmarks - the more you appreciate the special ones you see.  

We were both pretty amazed as this inscription.  I include the picture I took showing the name plate so you can understand just how minuscule the writing is.

It was a wet and rainy day and we dodged the showers in between museums/shops.  After a pit stop for coffee we headed to Bath Abbey.  

We paid our entrance fees and, as we entered, were handed a flyer for a piano recital which was just about to start.  We had accidentally stumbled across a lunchtime concert by Violet Wong.  I was enthralled.  She played (a) Scarlatti’s Sonata in G minor (b) Beethoven’s Sonata No. 17 in D minor, Op. 31, No. 2 “ Tempest” 1st movement (c) Chopin’s Nocturne Op. 55 No. 1; Debussy’s La Cathédral Engloutie and (d) Chopin’s Polonaise Op. 26 No. 1.  I loved it! Meanwhile JC was pottering around taking photos and not getting at all excited by the music.  So perhaps my shabby art knowledge isn't that shabby when it comes to classical music ;-)

Once the recital finished we moved onto the Herschel Museum of Astronomy.  This was certainly my choice, as who doesn't adore an astronomer?  Even better that William Herschel was not just 'supported' by his sister, Caroline, but she discovered - and was acknowledged for it! - numerous astronomical artefacts in her own right, which was a no mean feat in the 19th Century.

It was from this house that William discovered Uranus.  He initially called it "the Georgium Sidus", the Georgian Planet, in honour of King George III of England.  However, the name "Uranus" was proposed by German astronomer Johann Elert Bode in order for it to be in conformity with the other planetary names which are from classical mythology.  Uranus is the ancient Greek deity of the Heavens, the earliest supreme god (this name did not achieve common use until 1850). 

He also built an orrery which, if I had the space (and inclination) I'd quite fancy to have.  It's just such a cool bit of kit to have hanging around!  

There was a sundial in the back garden and statue memorialising William, taking observations, and Caroline noting them down.

We headed back down to the centre of Bath, passing this amusing pub sign and arch connect to Bath Spa.

On Sunday we took a walk down the Kennet and Avon Canal.

We crossed the Avon Cliff aqueduct then strolled on to the Dundas aqueduct.  

We lunched, and reversed our route, passing a heron and ending back in Bradford-on-Avon to witness the second deepest lock on the canal, of 3.81 m.

On Monday we had a day off so started by pottering around Bradford-on-Avon.  Spot the benchmark on the bridge (a 'swing' benchmark).

I loved this 'living wall' and the Iron Duke machine 

This was the flood level of the Avon in 1882.

Then we went to Lacock Abbey.  

Before the Abbey became famous for being owned by William Henry Fox Talbot, who invented photography, it was a monastery.  It was founded in 1232 by one of the most powerful women of the Middle Ages, Ela, Countess of Salisbury. The cloister and rooms are a rare example of medieval monastic architecture although her original cloister was demolished in the 1400s and replaced with what you see today.  Although I understand the calling these woman had, it must have been grim. There was no heating in any room except the 'warm room' which had a fire from 01 November to Easter.  The roof was initially wood and when it was replaced the cloister was remodelled which is why the rooms and roof arches no longer align (second picture).


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