When we knew we were moving to Cullompton I unfolded the local maps to study the terrain. I spotted a trail, the Exe Valley Way, and we agreed it'd be the next walk we did. Now most of the house downstairs is re-decorated, we are able to chill a bit, and start exploring properly.
Monday 25 May 2026: Exe Head to Withypool - 16.9 km
The Exe Valley Way officially goes from Exford to Starcross, but Exford isn't where the River Exe rises, and we wanted to go all the way from source to sea. This meant starting with the extension north of Simonsbath and walking a section of the Two Moors Way.
The buses are non-existent around this patch of Exmoor and, as we are blessed with two cars, we parked one at Withypool and the other north of Simonsbath where we started walking. A bog or two later, we found the source of the River Exe, the trail's namesake, starting high up on Exmoor. If you look closely, you can see the words "Exe Head" carved into the stone.
It has small, but promising, beginnings. I suppose that's how we all start out in life.
It was a super hot day so I was in full Vietnam mode - long sleeved blouse, trousers and hat. We were going to be out long enough to be stupidly burnt if we weren't covered up. Our route took us through Simonsbath and we arrived as the pub opened, so had a pint of coke before heading further.
By this stage we'd veered away from the Exe (there are no public rights of way along it) and were hugging the River Barle. Beautiful.
It was such a lovely walk - sun, water, no crowds and just the odd curious cute dog.
We eventually strolled into Withypool and stopped at the pub for another coke. Two guys said hi to us - turned out they'd also had a drink in Simonsbath and spotted us again!
Saturday 30 May 2026: Exford to Hawkridge - 16.3 km
Today we started the Exe Valley Way properly.
Exford is a lovely spot, although the ford now appears to be a bridge. But renaming itself Exebridge would cause no end of confusion... (see later yet-to-be blog).
Again, another beautiful day and the azaleas/rhododendrons were in full bloom. Climbing out of Exford, we looked back onto it.
Then it was up onto Room/Road Hills and down into Withypool via a not-terribly-great bullock encounter.
Anyway, I survived (thanks JC!) and we had coffee in Withypool at a cafe with vintage petrol pumps. 34p a gallon.
JC wandered off to take photos of the bridge again. Ah, yes, the lesser-spotted JC is seen in his natural habitat...
We then deviated from the Exe Valley Way, as its way-marked route was along a road and the Two Moors Way route, along the Barle, was far more enticing. So enticed we were and had a wonderful walk along the Barle. The tree trunk was incredibly comfy apparently.
We left the Barle at the ancient clapper bridge of Tarr Steps, which was busy as expected. Lots of happy squeals from splashing kids.
Then it was a pleasant meadow walk back to Hawkridge. I do love a long distance walk ;-)
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