Kyrgyzstan - and we're off

Saturday 15 September 2026

In JC's quest to travel the Silk Road, Krygyzstan was on the list.  For those who aren't au fait with the geography of Central Asia (including me), it's a small land-locked country sitting south of the large Kazakstan, north and west of China and east of Uzbekistan/Tajikistan.  It is a nomadic country and the average height is 2750 m above Mean Sea Level.

We were up and out by 0630 to catch train from Brentford to Gatwick.  It was a straight forward check in and we were soon airside for breakfast and a leisurely Guardian read.  Poor guy looks tired already!

We changed planes in Istanbul and had a 3.5 hour break between flights which meant time for Turkish tea and snacks.

We left Istanbul 2030 local (1830 BST) and landed in Bishkek, Krygyzstan, at 0430 local (0130 BST).  I’d managed a couple of hours sleep so wasn’t feeling too dead.  A very simple passport control, baggage collection and we were collected by our driver, Yusup and Madina.  They dropped us at our hotel and we were grateful for another couple of hours sleep before heading out to explore Bishkek. 

Sunday 16 September 2026

Bishkek is not currently (will ever be?) the highlight of any Central Asia tour.  It is a standard ex-communist city.  There appeared no old part to the city and we visited the Victory Arch, built to resemble a yurt frame, with its eternal flame.

We then walked to Bishkek Central Mosque.  Again all relatively new and apparently styled on the Blue Mosque in Istanbul.

It was very hot.  Hotter than the UK, in the high 30’s.  Unlike the UK, though, this was normal.  Bishkek is 800 m above mean sea level but we knew the temperatures would be lower for most of our trip due to the altitudes we’d be at.

We watched the changing of the guards.  The high leg walk reminded me of Athens guards, although no pom poms were in sight here.  They then stand rigid for two hours until the next pair relieve them.  When is it stupidly hot (not today) they are relieved after an hour.  Above them is a large Kyrgyz flag which I couldn’t capture without crossing a busy road.  If you hang in there with the blogs you'll see this again on 04 September.

We explored the State History museum.  JC found the Bronze Age and similar antiquities his vibe, whilst I preferred the more modern stuff (18th century onwards).  I liked the little epics on display.

Post independence from Russia in 1991, Kyrgyzstan had to create a new flag and here are the suggestions. The symbol in the centre of the chosen flag represents the lattice pattern across the top of a yurt where there is an opening to allow sun in/smoke out.

For lunch, JC continued his ongoing campaign to eat lagman (beef and noodles) at any opportunity and I had the first of many fried aubergine, tomatoes and rice dishes.  Kyrgyzstan is another destination I am not visiting for its cuisine.  Our guide, Timur, is struggling to understand how anyone can survive life without meat.  The diet here is meat centric, with beef and lamb being the most common.  Pork is rarely on the menu as many Kyrgyz are Muslim.  Our lunch started with a shot of the National drink, milk with salt.  We haven’t quite got our taste buds into that one yet (notwithstanding being unsure how safe it was for us to drink) but salt in drinks is common.

Timur asked about our jobs.  JC’s he could understand as weather is everywhere.  But trying to explain what a coastline, tides and waves are to someone who has never seen the sea was more challenging.  We explored the local market where Timur proudly announced “you can get anything” - anything except postcards it seems.  But he seemed right on most other things.  I didn’t take photos as I’ve taken numerous of these type of markets before: alleyways devoted to the sale of shoes, electronics, spice stalls, kitchen tool corners etc.  We had fresh pear juice from a vending machine which was delicious but were less taken with the dried hard cheese balls Timur was keen for us to try.

I was stopped by a man curious about the wires in my ears, my hearing aids.  He wanted to know how many channels they had (numerous) and how much they cost (lots).  I’ve never been asked that before by a complete stranger.

Back at the hotel we enjoyed the mountain view from our room.

JC caught up on sleep whilst I did the usual Ruth thing of reorganising the packing.  We split our stuff when we travel so that should one bag go AWOL we each had enough clothes/other stuff in the other one to survive.  But once both bags were safe, I swap it all around.  We shall be on the road a lot this trip so one bag shall be for our day-to-day use.  JC’s rucksack, stuffed with the sleeping bags, thermarest and thermals, can stay unused until needed.

Dinner out was aubergine, tomatoes and rice for me, again.  JC tried horsemeat for the first time and quite liked it, although not as much as beef. Timur discovered two more un-Krygyz things about me.  I drive a SEAT which he’s never heard of and I’m left handed (not common in Muslim quarters).  So what with that, being a veggie and mapping the coastline, he’s finding me a bit weird.  

The hotel is offering wine for 1800 KGS. Initially I thought it was stupidly heavy wine (I was tired), then realised it was Krygyz Som, the currency.  Certainly not a steal at ~£15 a bottle.

Pottering along through July into August

Trying to prove to myself that I'm not yet an old lady, I ran a 10 km race on a stupidly hot day mid July.  I look remarkably fresh beforehand and very beat after 1 hr 11 mins trotting in the heat.  Very grateful for St John's Ambulance start who were misting us with water at the water station!

JC finished building a raised bed in our garden.  I wasn't much help as my back isn't strong enough to lift more than ~20 kg of soil so he very much did the heavy lifting.

Our new sofa arrived so the old one went to sofa heaven, courtesy of the council kerbside pick up service.

JC went to Luxembourg for 10 days but whilst there his aunt died, so he stayed on for 2 weeks in total.  I am often not great when he's away.  I get lonely very quickly, and even though I keep myself busy I feel terribly sad and it takes quite an effort to 'choose happiness'.  Of course, I still function: I work, I feed myself, I do some exercise - but it's just under a more grey cloud than usual.

I went to see my nearest neighbour, TP5329, who is looking somewhat buried beneath vegetation.  I might take secateurs next time.

Talking of vegetation, our climbing rose in the house in Ottery St Mary fell off the wall.  So I spent a Sunday morning when JC was away trying to make headway on that.  I cleared off two bags of vegetation.

I moved offices at work and my new one has a deaf person who is accompanied by Eden, his guide dog for the deaf.  Eden is very cute and off putting in the nicest possible way.  She has a penchant for lying in the corridor in the middle of the room.

I finally discovered the benchmark on the local church, St Andrew's.  How I missed that for the last few months is bugging me.

JC arrived home last Friday and on Saturday he had his belated birthday present, a sea kayaking trip.  We paddled from Budleigh Salterton to Ladram Bay and back and it was glorious.  The Jurassic coastline is incredibly dry and the cliffs look as if they may crumble to dust at any moment - some huge cracks are very visible.

On Sunday we once again tackled the Ottery garden.  Our neighbour leant us a ladder and a saw which helped immensely.  You can now see the yard again.  He also served us fresh coffee which was much appreciated.  

This weekend has again been lovely.  It started with breakfast with Caitlin and Roger.  Caitlin had come to Exeter as she and Rog were off to France/Spain yesterday lunchtime, so I snuck in a coffee and catch up.  I also took her Christmas present sheep down to say 'hi' to her.  Sheep is too heavy, bulky and breakable to have yet made it back to London with Caitlin.

My aunt and uncle visited yesterday.  It is always a delight to see them and we had lunch al fresco, then a decent walk around all of Cullompton's sites. Of course, the first highlight for them was the trig.  The building works on the hill have just re-opened the access to the east side of the trig so I was able to bag the flush bracket number.

Linda and Rob are really interesting to walk with as they point out all sorts of features I march straight past.  For example, there was this marvellous fungi growing on the oak.  I also learnt about the hornbeam tree which I'd never heard of (I know, you're all shocked) and how identify it vs beech by its toothed leaves.  And elm trees with their asymmetric leaves.  The more I learn the more I realise I know very little.  

And today, our friends from Ottery trekked north for lunch with us.  Lovely to show Emma and Richard our new des res.  They are very taken by our wonky upstairs floors and Emma couldn't stop pruning our lavender.  I need all the input I can get on our garden - thanks!

 

Party time and a surprise extra visit

Sunday 05 July 2026

We celebrated Caitlin's 30th this Sunday with a braai - I much prefer the South African word for it.  Caitlin and Riona arrived fresh from camping, Mark trained down from Cardiff and Rog drove up the B3181.  JC and I had purchased a bbq for the occasion and Rog christened it with its first usage.

I made the birthday pavlova, and Riona and I discovered that sparkly candles light more easily if they have an 'end', so the 3 lit and burnt down before we'd even got the 0 up and running!   Honoured that Caitlin chose to spend her special day with the old parents ;-)

Caitlin had lots of presents, but the garden sheep was too heavy to carry back this time, so it's temporarily keeping penguin company in the fern corner.  They are having a ball.

I waved everyone off, saying to Riona "not sure when I'll see you next, but I'm not coming to Cardiff as I've been lots this year".  

Monday 06 July 2026

15 hours later I was on the phone to Riona asking if I could stay the night.  It turned out that one of my colleagues was unexpectedly unable to attend an event in Cardiff on the Tuesday, so I gallantly offered to attend.  I drove home from the office after lunch, packed and took the train up to Cardiff, spending a lovely evening chez Riona and Mark munching melon and wedding planning.

 

Tuesday 07 July 2026

I attended a coastal group meeting in the morning, then enjoyed a tour of the Cardiff Barrage in the afternoon.  I hadn't realised the lagoon was freshwater and that the scheme had to be approved by an Act of Parliament, such was the opposition to it.  Environmentally, it was moving from a tidal bay to a freshwater lagoon, a massive switch.  There were also complaints from marine traffic about having to use locks rather than coming and going as they pleased (which they never actually did as they could only navigate a few hours either side of high tide, but anyway...).  

Aesthetically, Senedd Cymru, the Welsh Parliament, is more appealing with permanent water in front, rather than a mud frontage at low tide.  And the redevelopment of the frontage has bought much business/tourism to the area: whether this is a good thing depends on your view on commercial regeneration.  I learnt that the minimum water level is 4 m above Ordnance Datum and when there is a large storm, bringing vast volumes of run off down the Rivers Taff and Ely, the tide gates are locked preventing the marine tide from exacerbating the water levels.  

I also discovered that the slipway/slope in front of the concert hall is a flood plain, and designed to be flooded/store water in extreme weather events.  Sorry, no photo, so probably only those who've been to Cardiff Bay know what I'm talking about.

It was very hot but super geeky stroll, crocodile included.  

Such a lovely weekend, with a little cherry on the cake of 22 hours in Cardiff.

 

Newcastle and south

Friday 12 June 2026

We arrived in Newcastle Friday night, checked in and had magnificent views of the Tyne from our hotel.  It was worth the spendy penny.

We travelled by metro to Jesmond that evening.  We were amused by the metro advert - which only makes sense if you knew where we used to live. 

We ate in the amazing Dosa Kitchen.  You enter around the back yard and you wouldn't know it was there, however the food was super lovely.  

I lived in Jesmond for my last year at university, Flat L in Eskdale Terrace.  For my first two years at uni I lived in Castle Leazes, on Leazes Moor, which have been knocked down (the student establishments, not the moor) so this was the last standing memory of my accommodation.  It gets worse tomorrow...

Saturday 13 June 2026

Today was the BIG trip down memory lane.  JC and I strolled up Grey Street and then I disappeared into the bowels of the University of Newcastle upon Tyne.  Oh my goodness, the students union, the red brick arches where most people read their degree results, it was great to be back.  

We met in the current Geospatial Sciences building and then went on tour of the campus. The equipment store of the geospatial sciences course was mighty fancy, but I wasn't able to distract anyone to nick a bit for my team.

This is where I graduated. 

The Old Brewery Building, where I had lived and breathed surveying sciences for my 3 years, was no more.  In its hey day, the door code had been set by a professor to 206265.  For the uninitiated, it is the number of seconds in a radian (rounded up).  It was the most amazing place I inhabited for 3 years, with the most awesome door code I've ever known.  But it was flattened for student accommodation.  Memories swiped.

In an interlude, I met with JC and Libby, my friend's daughter, for Indian street food in the Grainger Market.  

That evening I met up with fellow colleagues near Byker.  Much reminiscing, but a little sad that none of my graduation year had turned up.  However, I knew plenty of other surveyors, as many of us are still circulating in the industry.  

Sunday 14 June 2026

Time to head home, but not without one more wander around the quayside.  So many memories!

We drove south and visited Fountains Abbey.  It was well worth a visit to discover how the Cistercian monks ran the community until it was closed down by Henry VII.  

It was then incorporated into Studley Royal in the 18th Century and now is a UNESCO site, 

Monday 15 June 2026

This morning, I met one of my best friends from university for coffee which was supremely lovely.  Then JC and I headed south, with a pit stop at Hanbury Hall.  It was a summer retreat for Thomas Vernon (1654-1721) and celebrated for its wall and ceiling paintings by James Thornhill.

Not really my thing, but beautiful grounds.

 

In all, a super lovely, long weekend up north and must go back again soon ;-)