Monday, 27 June 2022

Vietnam - Hanoi Orientation

JC has always been keen on Asia and one winter evening randomly suggested we should visit Vietnam.  Next thing I knew was the Rough Guide to Vietnam was bought.  We started reading it and were hooked.  We booked our trip for the end of June/early July to fit around work commitments.  The downside of this was that we visited in the hot, sticky, monsoon season.  The upside was that there were fewer tourists around so we had a lot of the sites to ourselves!  

Friday 24 June/Saturday 25 June 2022

The journey to Vietnam was smooth although we left an hour late as the plane had a power cut.  We were just about to board (in the tunnel) and would have preferred not to see the engineers trot up and down to fix it!

The 11:30 hour flight was fine.  Jc produced a birthday card and present at just past midnight UK time.  No idea where we were but it was fun.  We had a 2:50 transit at Bangkok (shortened to 1:50 due to delayed departure from LHR) and to assist us the aircrew hurried us to the front to stand by the exit doors as the plane taxied.  I've never had that before and suspect that certainly wasn't in their Health and Safety procedures.  I opened two more cards on the next flight.  Birthdays flying east may be shorter than usual but still fun! 
We were staying at a lovely boutique type hotel in the old quarter of Hanoi.  We checked in and headed off to find food.  The streets are full of mopeds, cars and pedestrians and it’s each person for themselves to navigate and weave a safe passage for oneself.  Lots of honking (vehicles not pedestrians).  I had my birthday supper at a busy pavement cafe and managed to successfully order two plates of noodles, with duck for JC and freshly fried vegetables for me.  Even though we’re convinced they upped the price for us (my vegetable dish cost more than JC’s, partly because if was bespoke) the whole meal with two drinks was ~£5 so not a problem!

Sunday 26 June 2022

We explored the old quarter of Hanoi today.  This quarter developed as a trader's area to support the Emperor’s citadel just to the west.  Artisans from the countryside came to the city to provide B&Q like services to the citadel.  The streets are subsequently named to reflect the trade guilds that grew up in them such as tin, jewellery, medicine/herbs, copper, leather etc. so the shops are still grouped similarly.  
Health and safety standards haven’t quite hit the Vietnamese welding business yet.
Birds are everywhere - but sadly only in cages.  [We were later told that wild birds, and indeed a lot of wildlife, has been hunted/captured and tends to only exist in the wild deep inside forests].
And, as expected, the markets were full of fresh produce - in the case of the eels, very fresh!
We visited numerous temples, most with altars full of provisions to the Gods and memories of ancestors.  We were amused by the beer fest altar. 
We also visited an historic old house, built in the late 18th century.  The houses in the old district of Hanoi are narrow but extend a long way back due (called tube houses).  This was to mitigate a local a tax levied on the street width of one’s property.
At one juncture we detoured off to find the longest mosaic in the world.  This is over 4km long and wonderful!
We also found the Long Bien bridge designed by Gustave Eiffel, of you-know-where fame.
The nearby lake, Hoan Kiem, is worth a visit on Sundays as the local roads are shut meaning stress free strolling.

We popped over to Ngoc Son Temple, accessed by a bridge into the lake.

We were melting by now as our British systems weren’t yet used to the 35 deg celsius temperature.  We tried to drink lots but were still thirsty and appreciated a sit down at a lakeside cafe.  We were soon joined by a Vietnamese boy keen to try out his English.  So he and JC chatted about football for a bit.
We ate out in the Hanoi Social club on a balcony watching the lightning flash across the sky.

Sunday, 29 May 2022

Weekend in Liege

Saturday 30 April

Serendipity struck when I realised I could gate crash JC's pre-planned trip to Belgium for free!  He'd already paid for the Euro tunnel and the hotel so I booked the time off and joined him.  Whilst he spent the weekend photographing, I took the opportunity to explore this new (for me) city.  

Our hotel was a few km walk from the centre so it was pleasant stroll up La Meuse.

 

I started exploring in the old part of the city.

As my day progressed I realised that religious buildings were going to theme highly during my visit.  This was the first I passed, Collégiale Saint-Barthélemy.  It didn't dawn on me for a few churches that most of them were open (you just had to push the closed door) and were free.  

 

Lots of interesting small alley ways, 'impasses'.

I made a beeline for the Montagne de Bueren, all 374 steps of it.  I plodded my way up and was rewarded with amazing views. This stairway connects the citadel at the top with the barracks below.  

 

Wandering around the top I discovered that the Coteaux de la Citadelle has beautiful gardens, les Terraces des Minimes, which are a delightful, peaceful haven above the city.

I passed the not-very-externally-beautiful Collégiale Saint-Jean-en-L'isle de Liège and didn't enter.  Fortunately I returned the next day and did go in (see below) - it was really interesting!

Next up was Liège's cathedral, Cathèdrale Saint-Paul.  By now I was well and truly visiting a few fair of the 7 Collegiate churches of Liege.  Not only does the cathedral have glorious tiles and an amazing ceiling, the stained glass was wonderful.  As well as the 16th Century works of art, they also had a host of modern stained glass to replace those damaged in the First World War.

 

 

Then I headed for the Collegiate Church Saint-Jacques, a former Benedictine abbey established in 1015.  It has remarkable, intricate stone work which I was able to see from the vantage point of first floor room I discovered by chance (I go up any staircase I can find!).  

 

I loved the painted walls.

I'd been hours on my feet but hadn't finished yet.  I chose to walk back down the east side of La Meuse and enjoyed this quirky walkway under the bridge.  

Then it was into the riverside Parc de la Boverie - lakes, beautiful gardens etc - then back to our hotel by the central station and its striking architecture.  

 

Sunday 01 May

Today I started with the botanical gardens.  I'm a bit of a sucker for these, as well as sculpture gardens, and paid my 4 Euro to explore these Victorian glass houses.

 
 

Back to the historic centre I popped into the Palace of the Prince Bishops.  You can only stick your head into the main courtyard but the cloisters were beautiful.
 

Returning to the historic churches trail, I visited the Unité Pastorale Saint-Martin (St Martin's Basilica).  Once again, there were really beautiful and creative stained glass windows.  
 
I passed the Collégiale Saint-Jean-en-L'isle de Liège and decided to give it a quick look and I'm delighted I did.  Firstly, in the cloisters I found a line and dates on the wall.  It turned out, as expected, these were heights of the two major floods, the most recent one being in 1926.  A portion of Liège's centre used to be on an island and, although the river was blocked up land it still at risk from flooding.
 
Inside I discovered a rare feature, an octagonal interior.  A guide came over to chat to me in English, and explained that there are only a few of these types of church buildings in the world.  He said there was a similar one in Aachen, Germany, and Israel (and somewhere else?).  Sounds like a trip to Aachen is on the cards as it's beautiful.    

I sometimes wish I had a step count for weekends like these as I was on my feet for hours each day.  I adore a new city, a map in my hand and a flat pair of shoes.  Bliss.