Portugal off colour

Tuesday 25 June 2024

I wasn’t in birthday mood when I woke, quelle surprise.  JC had gone out early photographing, as the funiculars and tramways are free of insta tourists.  So he had a peaceful few hours, coffee out etc.

I eventually got up and we headed for an outdoor market, with me taking a few stops to rest as we went. The market was basically a bric-a-brac fest.  It really looked as if some people turned up with a suitcase of stuff they didn’t want, and laid it out on a blanket to sell.  From what I surmised, others didn’t want it either. I managed to eat half a wrap then we visited the Museum Nacional do Azuljo, the National Tile Museum.

This is housed in an old monastery.  In 1834, at the end of the Portuguese Civil war, monasteries were eradicated, so communities became creative about how to save these establishments/buildings.  Somewhere along the way this became a museum, hence the Lisbon tile museum has a Basilica inside.  With tiled walls of course.

Beautiful tiles all round.  And of course, a quadrangle.  Got to love a decent clock.

I liked these tiles extracted from the Lisbon aquarium and the other modern ones.

Not sure I got this one - it's called 'the chicken's wedding'.  There she is in the bottom left hand corner.

It was a long walk back - not helped by my lethargic dawdle - but we stopped for pink lemonade by the river which cheered me up.  I think I was the only person in Lisbon with a cardigan on.

I skipped supper again so JC ate out alone again.  Happy birthday me.

Wednesday 26 June 2024

JC was ill in the night - he blamed the sardines from the day before which may be right. He hadn’t slept well the night before either, so was shattered after two nights of poor sleep.  We made a right pair as we left the hotel and made our way to the airport to collect the hire car.  We looked as if we’d been on a 24 hour Lisbon bender.

JC drove us up to Mafra where we visited the Palacio de Mafra.  Beforehand, we needed lunch which came in the form of anything either of us felt like eating.  A croissant and coke for JC, and iced tea and soup for me.

The palace is huge - I suppose that’s how palaces rock - but at one stage it also housed ~300 monks.  Construction started in 1717 and initially it was going to be quite small, but then money started flowing in from the then Portuguese Brazil, and everything got upscaled.  The Portuguese royal family used it as a second home until 1910 when the republic was proclaimed.  Very sumptuous inside and you wonder what else the money could have been (better) used for! 

It had an infirmary with an isolation ward of 16 beds.  Each bed faced east towards the handily installed altar, so even the sick never missed a mass.

The deer antler room was a surprise but not so much as the antler chairs.  Not my cup of tea!

The library is the largest 18th century library in Europe and pretty awesome.

As we left the palace, JC asked if I’d drive.  It was a toss up between the person who hadn’t slept for two days and the one who hadn’t eaten for two days, so my turn.  As I eased myself behind the steering wheel I cheerfully noted that I hadn’t driven a left hand drive manual before (only automatics).  “Oh dear,” said JC.  “Will you be ok?” “Only one way to find out,” I responded.

Yes we made it to Batalha in one piece.  I hadn’t realised how much I drive holding the steering wheel more with my right hand.  With any manoeuvre I’d release my left hand only to realise the gear stick was on the other side.  I got the hang of it after a while.

Our hotel was an arts and crafts one.  I’d fancied something a little plush (it is my birthday week after all). Our room had a balcony facing the monastery.  I can live with this.  After a long nap JC and I managed to eat out: me half a salad and him a portion of chips.  There’s always tomorrow.

Sintra Magic

Monday 24 June 2024

As most attractions close on a Monday in Lisbon, it made sense to head to Sintra today.  We took a 40 minute train journey north and ascended into low cloud.

Our first port of call was the Moorish Castle.  You can either get a bus up to it or, do as we did, take a magical walk up through tropical woods.  The paths twisted and turned through verdant scenes and it was a delight.  Reminded me of Petite Suisse, Luxembourg.

It was nippy on top at the Fort.  A mighty construction and would have been a more amazing experience if we’d had some views!  But the cloud stayed low.  It was still fascinating to wander around.

We headed back down and to visit Quinta de Regileria. Hey surveyors!

Quinta de Regileria had looked weird and quirky online and it certainly was.

I wasn’t feeling well by this stage (felt like a cold was brewing) but managed to drift around this amazing place.  The owners had built a few grottos into hills.

And this incredible Poço Interfeito - a downward spiral into the grottos. Such fun! Lots of weird and wonderful things to see.  

And at the bottom of the spiral, a waterfall and more grottos.

I was feeling really nauseous by now.  We caught the next train back to Lisbon and I unceremoniously threw up in a dry bag on the journey (told you I was feeling ill).  We also then found out that the dry bag wasn't that waterproof after all...

Once back in Lisbon I couldn’t contemplate the metro so we walked - very very slowly - stopping once whilst I threw up into a Lisbon street gutter.  Such class.  Back at the hotel I crashed into bed, threw up a couple more times, then slept.  And that was my body starting to catch up on 2024.

Belem - A monastery, maritime museum and a tower

Sunday 23 June 2024

Today we went to Belem, a short train ride from Lisbon.  We started with the Jerónimos Monastery Monastery which had the most amazing architecture. It was annoyingly poorly organised (and you know I hate a disorganised queue!) in that they paid no attention to timed tickets. No matter what time your ticket was for you still all had to join the back of the 30-60 minute queue.  Ah well, I had a book and JC wandered off with his camera.  It was certainly worth the wait.

I loved the gargoyle like faces.

The photographer at large.

Afterwards we visited the maritime museum which is always a must-see on my list.

Lots of maritime goodies but, as always, it’s the navigational tools that grab me. 

They had a big hanger full of boats, a royal barge and seaplanes, one of which had done a final leg of the first ever flight across the Southern Atlantic.  Portuguese naval aviators Gago Coutinho and Sacadura Cabral flew across it in 1922 using three different Fairey III biplanes (they kept breaking them) over 6 weeks.  Crazy.

We walked down by the River Tagas, past the monument to Padrão dos Descrobrimentos.  The lighthouse was all scaffolded up which was sad, but at least it's getting some tlc.  It is vertical in real life - just the angle of the photo I took (panic not).

On arriving at Belem Tower we were advised it was sold out.  So we hopped online, bought some tickets, and entered.  Touché!

I don't often see signs re: what to do in case of an earthquake.  In fact Lisbon appears tuned into natural disaster management as there were tsunami warning and evacuation zones in Lisbon.

We were one of the last to enter as it was closing within the hour, so we were hustled from room to room and weren’t allowed on the roof space or to the terrace, except to snap a few shots.  And find a survey mark of course. 

However, better a rushed Belem Tower than not at all, and we we found it fun to be last in as most others had walked off when told it was sold out. 

We swung by the Church of St. María of Belém which is next to the monastery.  We were allowed to sneak in the back during a service and snapped our goal - the sarcophagus of Vasco da Gama.

We stayed late in Belhem as JC wanted to take some night photos.  All very beautiful but not an early night - another busy day (this is supposed to be a relaxing holiday...).